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Shimizu Jirocho/清水次郎長

Shimizu Jirocho/清水次郎長
写真引用元:「次郎長翁を知る会」
 
その一生を任侠で名を馳せ義理人情を以って全うした次郎長翁(実名:山本長五郎)は、1820 (文政3年)元旦生まれ。
今年生誕200年の節目を迎えました。
 
新型コロナの影響を受け、残念なことに今年は多くのイベントが影響を受けてしまいましたが、今日の清水港、そして静岡の発展はこの次郎長無しには語れません。
静岡でも「次郎長」の名前すら知らない人が多いと聞き、この機会に清水の歴史を紹介するお役に立てればと簡単ですが次郎長にまつわる関連情報をまとめました。
 
A legendary man of wisdom and human kindness , Jirocho ( original name:  Chogoro Yamamoto ) was born on January 1st ,1820 in Shimizu and it is the 200th  anniversary year of his birth.   To commemorate his birth, the year 2020 supposed to be a big celebration year to organize many unique events in the town of Shimizu. However, sadly due to the impact of COVID-19 many local events were cancelled or postponed,  unable  to release related events to public.
The development of Shimizu ward  is deeply associated with Jirocho but his name has been gradually forgotten by new generations.  Therefore, by taking the chance of this anniversary timing FIEJA has collected some of the highlights of the informations for you to pay a little more attention to know  the relations of a man [ Shimizu no Jirocho ] and a place of Shimizu.
 
 
次郎長は幼少時よりその暴れん坊ぶりと商魂を発揮、任侠の親分として、アウトローから転身、後に事業家として清水の貿易の礎を築きました。
江戸徳川家の重要なボディーガードとして帯刀も許されたその人徳は勿論の事、次世代の発展も見据えて英語塾まで開いたその先見の明…など、挙げればきりのない数々の伝説を持ったそのあっぱれな生き様を是非、この機会にゆかりの場所を訪れて触れてください。
 
He had been known as a naughty, untouchable boy as well as a smart child who had an incredible sense of business spirit.  He soon became a head of a local gang star whose name became widely recognized in  a vast area.  However,  some encounters in his life hugely influenced him that the gang star turned to become a businessman, and even spent the rest of his life by devoting himself for social commitment and greatly contributed to the development of Shimizu port where he was born.
Even the family of Tokugawa Shogun appointed him as a prominent bodyguard and allowed him to hold a Samurai sword which was an extraordinary case for non-samurai status.
Not to mention his virtue, he also had a foresight to develop the local industry and he organized an English school in Shimizu for the future of next generations.  And the man with lots of legends is truly worth being introduced for  many people.   
 
 
 
次郎長生家(「次郎長通り」)
Jirocho’s birthplace
 
美濃輪町にある次郎長の生家が建つ通りは「次郎長通り」と呼ばれ今でも懐かしい商店街になっています。
2017年に耐震工事と修復工事に着手し、風情のある町屋造りの構造と木造建築は残しつつ歴史的建造物として再生。次郎長生家「旧高木家住宅」は国登録有形文化財として静岡市に寄贈されました。
 
The street is called [ Jirocho-dori , it still keeps a nostalgic ambience with lots of small shops and houses.  In order to restore the structure and strengthen against earthquakes, the restoring project launched in 2017.  The main wood polls and traditional Machiya-style structure were preserved for its historical value. The house ( The residence of Takagi family ) was designated as a tangible National cultural property in 1996. 
 
 

Photo rights reserved. FIEJA

 
町家造の通り土間を一番奥へ抜け裏玄関を開けると、現在は裏通りに面しています。昔は巴川が眼前にあり護岸整備以前はは家の中で船の修理を行い、直接巴川へ出していました。
 
When entering the  Machiya-style,  long-stretched narrow house, an open space is attached to a corridor towards the back door. The back door used to face the Tomoe river directly during the time when Jirocho had lived.  ( early 1880s ) Ships were restored inside the house then returned to the river directly. Today, there is a distance between the riverside and the residence. 
 
 
ここでは静岡市の委託する運営スタッフの方による丁寧な解説を聞くことが出来ます。次郎長通りの雰囲気も含め、この木造建築が海外
からの訪問客には大変喜ばれるそうです。
Authorized support staff will give an interesting guide to show you around.
The nostalgic atmosphere of the street and old wooden structure are popular among foreign visitors. 
 
 
次郎長生家
〒424-0945
静岡市清水区美濃輪町4−16
4-16, Minowacho, Shimizu ward, Shizuoka city
Tel/Fax: (+81) 54-353-5000
入場料:無料
10:00- 16:00 火曜休(祝日を除く)/ Close on Tue ( Opens on Public holiday) 
土・日・祝日は10時~17時/Close at 17:00 on Sat, Sun, Public holiday) 
 
 
 
 
禅叢寺(ぜんそうじ)
Zen Souji Temple 
 

copyright belongs to Zensouji temple.

 
港から近い高台に位置し、ここには「清水」の地名の元と言われる井戸が現存します。
後に臨済宗中興の祖となる白隠慧鶴(当時19歳)が、雲水行脚修行最初の寺としてここで修行しました。
そして次郎長は幼少時ここ禅叢寺の寺子屋で学ぶも、悪ふざけが過ぎ退塾させられました。
現在は座禅会や、ロジェ・ヴォルス氏が主催する体幹を鍛える呼吸法レッスンなども開催しています。
 
Located not far from the port but up on the hill , there is a famous well that still sits in its garden, old saying the name of this area originates from this well  [ Shimizu ]. The spring water was used for helping surrounding residents as an emergency water, or used as a supply for the ships that called at the Shimizu port. 
 
Famous buddhist monk Hakuin Ekaku stayed in this temple  at the age of 19  and  began his buddhism training from this place. Jirocho  also studied in the class in this temple when he was a child. However, later he was forced to leave the class due to his naughty behavior . 
The temple organizes Za-zen ( seated meditation ) events as well as a breathing method class organized by a master Roger Voltz.
 
 
臨済宗妙心寺派 白華山禅叢寺
 Myoshinji temple, Rinzai sect   
Byakugezan,  ZENSOUJI- TEMPLE
(みょうしんじは びゃくげざん ぜんそうじ)
〒424-0835 静岡市清水区上清水5-7 
5-7, kami Shimizu, Shimizu ward, Shizuoka city
Tel: (+81) 543-6986
 
 
遠州都田吉兵衛供養の墓 (「都鳥」供養の地 )
Grave of Enshu Miyakoda Kichibei

追分羊かんの近く。

次郎長の子分、森の石松が都田吉兵衛兄弟に斬殺された報復として、大政ら により襲われて討ち取られました。その供養として都田一家の供養塔がここに建てられています。
 
In 1860, Mori-no Ishimatsu , a royal follower of Jirocho was assassinated by Miyakoda Kichibei brothers and as a result of revenge, Eventually he was killed by Jirocho’s follower Ōmasa.   Miyakoda Kichibei  was buried here to heal his abandoned soul.
 
 
424-0841 静岡市清水区追分3丁目5-18
5-18,3 -Chome Oiwake, Shimizu Ward, Shizuoka, 
 
 
 
追分羊かん
Oiwake Youkan
( Traditional red bean sweets shop ) 
 
 
次郎長とは縁の深い場所、追分。300年の歴史を誇る歴史ある羊かん菓子店。
素朴ながらもっちりと味わい豊かな飽きのこない美味しい羊かんを包むその竹皮の香りがとてもよく、地域の代表的な土産です。
This sweet shop has been here since about 300 years ago and beloved by many locals . Its simple but tasteful Yokan is famous for its flat shape and the aroma that comes from natural bamboo-skin wrapping.  It is one of the popular souvenirs of Shimizu.
 
追分羊かん
本店:静岡市清水区追分2-13-21
21-13-2 Oiwake, Shimizu ward, Shizuoka city
Tel: (+81) 543-66-3257
08:30-16:00 (日曜定休/ Closed on Sun ) 
駐車場:東側5台 西側4台( Parking available: 5 /east, 4/west side)
 
 
 
 
フェルケール博物館
Verkehr
Shimizu Port Terminal Museum
 
フェルケールとはドイツ語で「港」を意味します。
この博物館では駿河湾を航海した和船の変遷の解説や、運ぶ物資に合わせ設計された特徴ある船の大型模型も多数見比べることができます。常設展示室では波止場での荷役の変遷や港の発展について多くの展示を見ながら知ることができます。
 
次郎長は貿易港としての清水港の整備に尽力しました。横浜港からお茶の輸出が盛んになり、次郎長は横浜まで頻繁に赴き談判を重ねた結果、1876年(明治9年)横浜〜清水の定期航路開設を実現しました。その後、清水町の有志による交渉が実り清水港からお茶が直接海外へ輸出されるようになったのは1906年(明治39年)以降です。
 
Verkehr means [ port ] in German,  The history of Shimizu port must be explained in alliance with Jirocho as he greatly contributed to the port’s development . In the museum, there are many wooden boats & ships with a full explanation of unique design and the history. Also,  a guidance and marine-related valuable items are displayed to stimulate your curiosity.
 
As the demand for exporting Japanese tea grew rapidly, Yokohama became an important exporting port of green tea . Since there was no direct international trade license in Shimizu port,  Jirocho often visited Yokohama and repeated the negotiation with shipping dealers in order to invite ships to Shimizu port to carry green tea from Shimizu port. Finally,  the fixed shipping route between Yokohama and Shimizu was established in 1876.  
The international direct shipping route from Shimizu was made in 1906 and from then onwards, green tea exporting  became even more global. Jirocho’s initial effort has made a contribution to the following development of the port..
 
9月6日まで、清水港から世界に輸出されたお茶のパッケージデザイン「蘭字」を堪能できます。
『蘭字Ranji 輸出茶箱絵の世界』(*終了しました。)
Ranji is a commercial printing design specially made for exporting Japanese green tea made during the end of Edo period – Meiji period.
The Ranji collection shows the unique international tea trading history of Japan. 
( Ended ) 
 
フェルケール博物館
一般財団法人 清水港湾博物館
Verkehr
Shimizu Port Terminal Museum
〒424-0943  静岡市清水区港町2-8-11
2-8-11, Minato-cho, Shimizu ward, Shizuoka city 424-0943
Tel: (+81) 543-52-8060
開館時間/open:9:30-16:30 休館日/Closed :月曜/Mon(祝祭日、振替休日の場合は開館/ Open if Mon is a public holiday )
入館料/Admission:大人/adult 400円 中高生/Junior 300円(土曜日と「こどもの日」「海の日」は小・中学生無料/ Free admission for primary & secondary school students on 5th May , 3rd Mon of July.)
無料駐車場あり/ Free parking space 
 
 
 
「壮士の墓」
Soushi no Haka (  Grave of the Braves ) 

墓碑は山岡鉄舟による揮毫。Calligraphy by Tesshu Yamaoka

 
1868年9月、大嵐に遭遇し清水湊まで流されて来た旧幕府軍率いる咸臨丸は新政府の軍艦に攻撃され、乗組員は惨殺されました。港内に打ち捨てられた遺体を次郎長は当時の官令に背き供養して墓を建立、その人徳に感銘を受けた山岡鉄舟が墓碑銘「壮士の墓」を贈りました。
 
A Japanese first warship Kairin Maru encountered a typhoon on its way northward, and Kanrin Maru, having suffered damage, was forced to take refuge in Shimizu harbour, where she was captured by Imperial forces, who bombarded and boarded the ship although there was a white flag of surrender. Jirocho bravely decided to collect the abandoned body in the harbour  to bury them at night.  Tesshu Yamaoka,  a politician whom Jirocho supported  in later period, was moved by his sincere act,  sent a calligraphy specially for this grave.
 
壮士の墓
Grave of the Brave
静岡市清水区築地町1−7
1-7, Tsukiji Cho, Shimizu ward, Shizuoka city 
 
 
清水港船宿記念館「末廣」
Shimizu Port Seamen’s Inn Museum
 SUEHIRO
 
 
 
次郎長が1886年(67歳)に開いた船宿の建材を利用して2001年に復元した施設。今は記念館として遺品や資料を展示しています。徳川慶喜公が護衛の礼として次郎長に贈った着物も展示されています。ビデオ解説、お土産もあります。
Suehiro was originally an inn for seamen built by Jirocho when he was 67 years-old, and the original pillars, fanlight and beams were used for building this museum in 2001.  There are many remaining collections from this old inn, also showing us how he made his contribution to the growth of local industry.  There is a Kimono presented by the last Shogun Yoshinobu Tokugawa,too.  Video guidance and souvenirs are available.
 
Suehiro 
The Shimizu Port Seamen’s Inn Museum
Minato-cho 1-2-14
10:00-18:00
Closed on Mondays ( or next business day when Monday is a national holiday ) 
Tel (+81) 543-51-6070
 
 
清見寺
Seikenji Temple
 
 
奈良時代〜現代まで、日本史上の重要人物や出来事との関わりを知る楽しみが凝縮されています。
『食人之食者死人之事』と書かれた咸臨丸殉難者の碑があります。これは次郎長が死者の追悼と清水港の発展を願って建立したもの ( 1887年、明治20)。朝鮮通信使も立ち寄った古刹であり、歴史的重要遺物を拝観できます。
庭園に植わる「臥龍梅」の名は中国の「三国志演義」中の故事にちなみ、幼少時に今川氏の人質としてこの寺に暮らした徳川家康公が手植えた梅として今日までその姿を残しています。
高台から清水の絶景をお楽しみ頂けます。JR興津駅からすぐ。
 

Founded in the Nara period, it is one of the most outstanding temples in the Tokaido area.  It consists of many designated cultural assets such as the garden designated as the scenic spot of the country.

There is a memorial stone monument for the dead of the tragic incident of the Kairin maru warship. The monument was  built by JIrocho who mourned for the dead and wished the growth of Shimizu port. 

Renowned plum tree  [ Ga Ryu Bai ]  (  a meaning of ‘ lying dragon and a plum tree ‘ originated from Chinese classic literature [ San Guo Yan Yi : a Romance of the Three Kingdom ] )  is said to have been granted by Shogun Ieyasu who was  held as a hostage when he was a boy.  It is also a temple cherished by the Korean envoys.

 
臨済宗妙心寺派
清見寺
Seikenji Temple
Myoshinji temple, Rinzai-sect
 
〒424-0206
静岡市清水区興津清見寺町418-1
 
418-1 Seikenji machi, Okitsu, Shimizu ward, Shizuoka city
424-0206
TEL: (+81) 543-69-0028 
 
 
梅蔭禅寺 
(清水次郎長菩提寺)
Baiin Zenji Temple (  Shimizu Jirocho’s grave ) 
 
 

睨みをきかせる次郎長の銅像とは対照的に、脚下の水面は穏やかに水をたたえています。 At the foot of Jirocho’s bronze statue, peaceful scenery of surroundings stretches in the garden.

 
臨済宗妙心寺派に属する禅寺。
次郎長とその家族、仲間のお墓 (仙右エ門、小政、大政、石松、てふ(蝶)一代、二代、三代)が整然と並びます。
遺品を公開する「次郎長遺物館」には、次郎長の多くの遺物に加え、山岡鉄舟が次郎長に贈った書なども展示されており必見。
 
A Myoushinji group zen temple belongs to Rinzai-sect.
It is also famous for the graves of the Jirocho family, including Jirocho himself, his 3 wives  [ O-chou ] , followers Sen-emon,  Komasa, Ōmasa, Ishimatsu.  They are placed peacefully in a calm surrounding garden.  Visitors can see many personal belongings of Jirocho, such as his shoes, fighting tools, gifts, household items…etc. A famous calligraphy sent by Tesshu Yamaoka is also displayed here in the relic room.
 
 
武田信玄公御朱印地
幽香山梅蔭禅寺
424-0932 静岡市清水区南岡町3−8
Tel:(+81) 543-52-0995 
8:30-16:00
大人300円・子供150円
(次郎長資料館及び次郎長お墓拝観料)
 
Baiin Zenji Temple
3-8, Minami Okamachi, Shimizu ward, Shizuoka city, 424-0932
Tel:(+81) 543-52-0995 
Open: 8:30 – 16:00)
300JPY/ adult, 150 JPY / child for grave viewing & relic room 
Parking/ yes
 
 
次郎長翁を知る会
[ Learning Jirocho ] association
 
次郎長翁について全て知っていますか?
人物伝も必読です。
 
How much do you know about Shimizu Jirocho?  This is a good entrance to get to know deeper about Jirocho.
 

山岡鉄舟像を支える石は、次郎長が久能寺再興のため伊豆より取り寄せた礎石を使ったもの。The rock holding Tesshu, was ordered to be carried from Izu by Jirocho, who promised to help Tesshu for the rebuilt of this temple

 
静岡・山岡鉄舟会
Shizuoka  Yamaoka Tesshu association
 
静岡藩大参事であった旧幕臣であり江戸無血開城の立役者。
幕末明治の烈士と次郎長と絆は深く、彼らの関係を軸にストーリーを読み解くのも面白いでしょう。次郎長の機転と護衛なくしては鉄舟が順調に西郷との面会を果たすことは無理でした。
 
Tesshu Yamaoka, a retainer ( Samurai )  of the Edo Shogunate, who once became an official of the Shizuoka domain, later served in a court of Emperor Meiji as a chamberlain and a close aide. He played a prominent role when the Edo shogunate surrendered without a major massacre.  The relationship with Jirocho is greatly attributed to the historical event during the end of Edo  until the Meiji era.  Reading through the biography of those people in the time of social upheaval may vitalize your understanding of the history of Japan.
 
Without  a Jirocho’s witty action to save Tesshu in Shimizu,  Tesshu may not have reached the historical meeting with Takamori Saigo ,which is one of the historical event.
 
Shizuoka Yamaoka Tesshu association
 
 
 
鉄舟寺
Tesshuji Temple
 
 
 
 
創建は推古天皇の時代、久能忠仁が草堂を建てたことに始まると言われます。
平安時代に名僧、行基が伽藍を整備し山中のクスノキで千手観音を自刻したと言われ、もとは現在久能山東照宮のある久能山の山頂にあって「久能寺」の名称でしたが、武田信玄によって現在の地へ移され、江戸時代末期までに荒廃したものを山岡鉄舟が再興し「鉄舟寺」となりました。この再興にあたり次郎長も奔走しました。
現在内部を拝観はできませんが、境内には山岡鉄舟の像、刷毛塚があります。駿河三十三間観音の一つであり、上方から清水の港を一望することができます。国宝である「法華経」は現在東京国立博物館に収められていますが、重要文化財である錫杖(1142)や、能書家による写経「譬喩品(ひゆほん)」など多くの宝物を擁します。
 
This temple was originally called [ Kunōji temple ] and located in the current place where Kunōzan Toshogu stands on top of the Kunō mountain.  It was transferred to this location by Takeda Shingen and remains until today.  During the long period of time this temple had  been long abandoned with no major revival until the end of Edo period. Tesshu Yamaoka decided to revive this temple and he also ask for Jirocho’s help.  As a result, it was rebuilt with a new name of [ Tesshuji Temple. ] There are several significant national treasures which are now not unveiled to public. In the garden, there is a statue of sitting Tesshu, of which base stone was carried from Izu by an order of Jirocho to rebuild the temple.  National treasure { Kunōji Kyo] is now deposited to Tokyo national museum . Also many more important treasure are kept by the temple.
 
鉄舟寺
Tesshuji Temple
静岡市清水区村松2188
2188 Muramatsu, Shimizu ward, Shizuoka city
 
 
 
静岡市指定文化財(史跡)
西郷、山岡会見の地
Meeting point of Saigo and Yamaoka
 
 
清水港からは離れますが、駿府城にすぐ近いこの地で江戸城無血開城と徳川家の安泰を決定付ける談判が行われました。それに先駆け鉄舟の身の安全を確保し万全の警護体制を整えた次郎長の功績は大きいでしょう。
 
Although quite remote from the Shimizu port,  this is also a significantly important  historical place as a conclusion of this directory.  Situated next to the Sumpu castle, a stone monument tells us that this is the place where Saigo and Tesshu had a negotiation and this led Saigo to compromise with Tesshu to promise the security of the Shogun family and a surrender of the Tokugawa Shogunate. 
 
 
 
以上、駆け足にてここまでご紹介しましたがここに挙げていない名勝、所縁の場所は他にも沢山有ります。1人の人物から辿りゆく歴史が、清水、そして静岡の今日までの歩みを生々と蘇らせます。
 
There are many more to explore if you want to know further about Jirocho and related places in Shimizu ward or Shizuoka city.  Knowing a man’s biography can take us to discover such a dramatic history of the past.  and we hope that you may feel the drama of Shizuoka  on your own feet when you have a chance.
 
 
*扉写真:「次郎長翁を知る会」より引用しました。
 
 
 
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